Sunday, June 14, 2009

A feast

This being a Sunday, and not a historical day of fasting, we indulge in a bit of rich food. The pease are growing well in the garden, we have lettuces and radishes, roots and leaves of good flavor and sweetness. Berries and cream are here, the cows are freshened and the cheesemaking goes apace.
It is a busy time, planting and picking, feasting on fresh delights and preparing for the winter ahead.


This recipe from An Early Northern Cookbook, Libellus de Arte Coquinaria isbn 0966982647

Recipe XVII D14
About a dish called Kalus; sweet milk
One should take fresh milk and cut into it the crust of wheat bread, cut into small dice. Afterwards, place this in a pan and add well beaten egg yolks. This is called "Kalus"

de cibo qui vacatur kalus, saeta mjolk
Maadr skal taka saeta mjolk, & skera Par i skorpuna af hveiti braudi & skera svo smatt sem teninga, & sidan lata Pat i ponnu; lata Par til rauda af eggium vel slegit. Pat heitir kalus.



Note the lack of mention of heat, seasoning, or preferred texture. Is the bread to sit and absorb the fresh milk for a time? Is it to be a thickened eggnog type of enriched milk beverage?

"Afterwards" is stated, implying "after the bread crusts are cut in". Does this also imply after the milk has soaked into the crusts for a time? Is it possible that this is a rich milksop, served cool and uncooked, intended for the frail?

Assuming that the statement "place in a pan" implies service for several, is it intended as a treat?

Is there an implication of heat being applied in said pan, as pans are frequently for cooking, rather than cold service?

My take on things, with a ( modern ) preference for cooked eggs;
a quart of milk
a loaf of slightly stale bread
1/2 doz egg yolks

Cube the bread to about 2" cubes.
soak in the milk
fold in the eggs.

Bake at 350 for 25 mins

Modern adaptation might consider this a baked french toast.

We had this with fresh raspberries.

The questions raised by such a simple, three ingredient recipe point clearly at how little we can afford to take for granted when trying to make sense of the historical diet.

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